Jeff’s DIY Plunge Pool with Jets in Georgia, USA (Case Study)

Last updated: September 2026

As a refreshing change, this article was written by Jeff from Georgia, USA, not me! Jeff has very kindly put together some words and sent some amazing photos of his DIY build.

Like pretty much everyone, he went down the DIY route to save the cost of a pool or spa builder. While looking for a way to get the hot tub-come-plunge pool he wanted, he found me and my website. Armed with plenty of information, and buying his parts from me too, Jeff began his DIY journey.

Over to Jeff and his story.

Getting started

I started my pool project on August 14, 2023. I have a background in construction and DIY, but that being said, I had never built a pool.

The local pool company quoted $75k for a 10×15 plunge pool (which is 5,625 gallons), and I felt I could take it on myself and save money. My final price ended up being $35k, so I saved over half.

As I began, I quickly learned I was in over my head, but then I found Andi, and his advice and expertise have been priceless. His course and videos answered most of my questions, but I would always have something new pop up, and he was quick to reply with the right answer.

I bought every part I could from him as well, and found this to be a huge advantage, as he was available to support me with installation. Andi was invaluable, and with his help I was able to do everything on the project myself except the concrete walls and plaster.

Excavation, rebar and bonding

This set of pics shows the site before I moved any dirt. I have a Kubota skid steer, so this part went fairly quickly, and then I had some shovel work of course. It was easy to form, and I decided to do a deep end and a shallow end so we could have a place to swim around.

I had a great spot for my pump room, under the covered deck next to the pool. It was fairly easy to get to this point. Getting the dirt packed with my skid steer and getting the rebar laid out right and bent were the most important steps here.

Also, I used 6 gauge bare copper wire for my bonding grid and made sure every piece was tied together. I used bonding lugs in all 4 corners.

Andi’s note: in the USA, equipotential bonding of a pool’s steel and metal parts is required by the NEC. I explain what it is and why it matters in What is ground bonding and do I need it? For the steel itself, see my rebar guide.

Rough-in plumbing and pouring the walls

The next step was laying out the rough-in plumbing, setting the forms for the walls and pouring. I made a couple of errors on the plumbing. I left one of my floor inlets too low, which caused me some headaches later. I also ended up dropping the last 3 jets lower and initially capping the first one, because I hadn’t left quite enough clearance for the width of the blocks I was able to source for the stairs.

I have to mention that if you’re pouring walls, it’s very important to put either foam or duct tape over the ends of your 2.5 inch jets, so when you pull the forms you don’t have to go back and chisel out concrete. After I installed the jets, I used hydraulic cement around them to make them as tight as I could. I also used 5,000 psi concrete on the slab and walls, without air in the mix, for maximum waterproofing.

Andi’s note: there’s more on jets and wall penetrations in How to install gunite jet bodies and on the whole layout in my DIY hot tub plumbing guide.

Steps, bench and insulation

I used cinder blocks to make the steps, a viewing ledge and a bench. I drilled rebar about 2 inches into the slab to make sure nothing would ever move. I mixed Quikrete (it took 80 bags) and core-filled them.

I hadn’t laid block in years, but this went smoothly for me and a helper. I also used 2 inch rigid foam insulation around the entire concrete shell, fixed with construction adhesive and Tapcons, which I finished with stucco for a cost-effective but good-looking finish.

Andi’s note: insulating the outside of the shell like this makes a real difference to heating costs. See DIY hot tub insulation and Hot tub steps: the ultimate guide.

The control room

Around this time I made my control room. I built a Trex base and did this in my shop. It ended up being quite a bit heavier than intended, but a friend and I were able to carry it out and slide it in.

It barely fit, and only after I removed the metal roof I had used and put shingles on instead. The location is out of the weather, but once a year I pressure wash the deck, so I wanted to protect against that.

Andi’s note: building the equipment on a base in the workshop is a great idea. For more on where to put yours and how to lay it out, see Hot tub control room position and Hot tub control room design considerations.

Wiring, waterproofing and coping

Once I had the control room in place, I wired it all up. I trenched and ran about 120 feet of 6/3 with ground UF to a 60 amp spa box, and it took me the better part of a day to tie it all together.

Then I used Henry 107 on all the exposed wall ties, and I used Hydro Ban latex waterproofing around the entire tile line for extra protection where there would be no plaster. I then tiled the top band and used a 1 inch MSI porcelain for the coping. I bevelled it so rainwater would drain to the outside on a very slight decline.

Andi’s note: Laticrete’s Hydro Ban data sheet lists it for in-ground concrete pools and water features. For the electrics, see my hot tub wiring guide, and always have the work checked by a licensed electrician and your inspector.

Plaster

Finally, it was time for plaster. I chose QuartzScapes by NPT in Anvil, which in hindsight I would not do again. I also ended up with a bit of a shady subcontractor who disappeared after the install and gave me some bad intel on the thickness.

My research showed it would be around 1/2 to 1 inch thick. He insisted it was 2 inches, so I set all my jets and returns to where he insisted. That meant I had to totally redo them all when the crew showed up and confirmed 2 inches was wrong.

This is the day of install and the next day, once full.

Over the next 7–10 days, quite a bit of plaster dust formed as it set up. Despite brushing 2–3 times a day, I could not remove it, and the finish quickly became chalky. I was forced to drain the pool and do an acid wash, which worked quite well.

Andi’s note: if you ever need to acid wash, read Muriatic acid: a guide for hot tub and pool owners first, and follow the safety advice.

Lighting

The light I used is very similar to the one Andi uses, but I had already bought it and was outside my return window. It is a nicheless LED and was an easy install. It came complete with a transformer and was easy plug and play. All I had to do was drop a 110 outlet by my control room off my 240 and put in a 15 amp disconnect.

I used sealer around it before filling, and put a Hartford loop in as a backup for the wire.

The finished pool

And this is the finished product. I am still struggling with the finish and may end up using an epoxy-based paint, but I’m also told it will even out over time, so we will see.

I did end up installing a Hartford loop after having a bit of water getting into my blower, but with Andi’s help I figured out that I had incorrectly capped one of the jets (the one I had first thought was too close to the stairs). So I chiselled it out, and using hydraulic cement and a new niche, it now works perfectly as intended and the jets are strong. We had quite a time sorting that issue.

Andi’s note: a Hartford loop on the air line takes the pipe up above the water level before it drops to the blower, so water can’t run back into it. There’s more in Water in a hot tub air blower? and Hot tub air blower: the ultimate guide.

Because of the volume of water, the electric inline heater can’t keep up in winter where I am, but I have since installed a 150k BTU propane Hayward heater. If all goes well, it should take the water from 60 to 95 degrees in around 8 hours for around $36, so we can use it on a cool weekend in winter.

Andi’s note: if you’re working out heating for a bigger body of water, see Determining the perfect heater size for your pool or hot tub and Hot tub gas heaters.

I am still debating covers, but because of its size I will likely just use a solar blanket rather than a formal cover.

It is interesting how different it can look depending on the angle of the sun and the lighting.

All in all, I am pleased with the outcome, and I could never have done this without Andi’s help. He saved me countless dollars and time, and I can’t recommend him enough. He is patient, makes himself available and genuinely cares that you get the best outcome.

For reference, this took me around 3 months in total, working on it nearly every day, for a saving of $40k. Knowing it was done right, it was well worth it to me.

Thanks Andi!

Jeff, GA, USA, December 2023

Thanks, Jeff

Thank you, Jeff, for writing this up and for the kind words. It’s a stunning build, and I love how honest you’ve been about what went wrong as well as what went right. That’s exactly what helps the next person. If you’re weighing up a build like this, have a read of Hot tub vs plunge pool: which should you build? and my DIY plunge pool guide.

Planning your own plunge pool or hot tub?

My plunge pool plans come in several sizes, including 15ft x 8ft and 20ft x 10ft, with architectural drawings. For a hot tub, my DIY hot tub plans include CAD drawings, the plumbing layout, a parts list and the video course. If you want something custom, my custom hot tub (or pool) design consultancy gets you a design and my support through the build.

FAQs

How much does it cost to build a DIY plunge pool?

It depends on size, finish and how much you do yourself. In Jeff’s case, a pool company quoted $75k for a 10ft x 15ft plunge pool, and his DIY build came to $35k, with contractors for the concrete walls and plaster.

How long does a DIY plunge pool take?

Jeff’s took about 3 months of near-daily work. For a hot tub example, see How long does a DIY hot tub build take?

Why does new pool plaster go chalky?

Fresh plaster releases dust as it cures, which is why it needs regular brushing in the first days. Jeff’s became chalky despite brushing, and an acid wash sorted it.

What is a Hartford loop on a hot tub?

A loop in the blower air line that rises above the water level before dropping to the blower, so water can’t flow back into it.

Got a question for Jeff or me about a build like this? Drop it in the comments below. I read them all.

Cheers,
Andi

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Thanks - Andi

 

Hi, Andi here. I own Buildahottub.com and also write all of the articles and info pages on the site. Some years back now, I built my own hot tub but struggled to find the information I needed. So, once my tub was complete, I started this website to help others in their own pursuit of hot tub and plunge pools DIY building information.

Fast forward to 2025, I've helped over 1400+ DIY customers just like you all over the world build hot tubs and pools. Have a good look around the site, there are lots of resources here. Please do get in touch if I can help you. - Cheers, Andi