Wide Arc Stainless Steel Water Blade: Installation Tips

Last updated: September 2026

A wide arc stainless steel water blade is one of the nicest additions you can make to a hot tub or pool. It’s a sleek stainless spout that throws a smooth arc of water and adds a real touch of elegance to the backyard. It only looks good if the plumbing behind it is right, so here are the installation tips I give customers.

Use a dedicated pump

The most important rule is that the water blade must have its own pump. Don’t connect it to your pool circulation pump or to the jet flow of your hot tub. A water blade needs a high flow rate, and sharing a pump with filtration or jets reduces the performance of everything.

If you’re retrofitting one to an existing pool or hot tub, remember that the system was designed for the flow rate of the existing kit. Bolting a water feature on to it can starve the rest of the system: the jets will be underpowered, or the filter won’t get enough water. A separate pump avoids that. The same logic applies to any water feature, as I explain in adding a water feature to your DIY hot tub.

Pump and plumbing considerations

Two suction pipes

Your plumbing setup needs two inward suction pipes. That matters for flow, and for VGB (Virginia Graeme Baker) compliance and safety. If one suction point gets blocked, the other can still deliver water to the pump, so it doesn’t run dry. Twin suctions also spread the pull, which reduces the risk of entrapment. Use suction covers that meet the standard for your country, and see installing a main drain for how I fit them.

Choosing the right pump size

As a rule of thumb, a one-horsepower pump is the minimum for most installations. With longer pipe runs, step up to two horsepower so there’s enough flow for the blade to work smoothly. But horsepower isn’t the best measure. Not all 1HP pumps have the same flow rate, so check the blade manufacturer’s stated flow and compare it with the pump curve at your head height. As a starting point for a thin, clean sheet, plan on around 5 GPM per foot of blade width (about 60 litres a minute per metre), and follow the maker’s figure if it differs. There’s more on how flow, lip width and drop height interact in how to size a pool overflow or spillover.

Ball valves for control

Fit ball valves on both the suction and discharge sides of the pump. They do two jobs:

1. Isolating the pump. If you ever need to work on or replace the pump, you can shut it off without draining the system.
2. Flow adjustment. Valves won’t drastically change the flow, but you can trim it by around 10 to 15% on the discharge side to tune the blade’s performance. Don’t go further than that. Restricting the flow too much puts strain on the pump and can burn it out. Never throttle the suction side: the suction valve should be fully open when running.

Connecting the pipes

The blade usually has a threaded connection, for example a 1.5in thread on one side and a socket on the other, which joins the 1.5in pipe of your discharge line. Use larger pipe on the suction side and stick to 1.5in on the returns for good flow. For the glue-up itself, see how to make a PVC solvent weld joint, and for pipe choices hot tub pipe.

Mounting the water blade

You’ll find four mounting holes on the blade, which make fixing easy. They let you secure it to the side of a pool, a hot tub, or even a decorative wall. Align it carefully before you fix it. A blade that’s even slightly off level gives a lopsided arc, and the sheet will look best when the water leaves it evenly.

Common mistakes

• Sharing a pump with the jets or pool filtration.
• Choosing a pump by horsepower rather than by flow at your head.
• A single suction line with no redundancy.
• Closing the discharge valve too far to tame the arc.
• Undersized pipework on the suction side.

Want a design that includes a water feature?

If you’re planning a water blade as part of a new build, it’s far easier to design it in from the start. My DIY hot tub plans give you the plumbing layout for a standard tub, and I can add features like this to a custom design through the architectural CAD and 3D plumbing design service. For parts, take a look at parts4tubs.com (USA) or parts4tubs.co.uk (UK).

FAQs

Can a water blade share the pool pump?

No. It needs a high flow rate, so it should have its own pump and its own suction. Sharing starves the filtration or the jets.

What size pump do I need for a water blade?

Most installs need at least a 1HP pump, and 2HP for long pipe runs, but go by the blade’s flow requirement and your pump curve rather than horsepower alone.

Why two suction pipes?

So that if one is blocked, the pump can still draw water and won’t run dry. It also reduces the risk of entrapment and is required for VGB-compliant setups.

Can I control the flow with a valve?

Yes, but only a little: trimming the discharge by 10 to 15% is fine. Closing it further strains the pump.

What pipe size should I use?

A 1.5in discharge to match the blade’s connection, and larger pipe on the suction side.

Got a question about your own build? Drop it in the comments below. I read them all.

Cheers,
Andi

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Thanks - Andi

 

Hi, Andi here. I own Buildahottub.com and also write all of the articles and info pages on the site. Some years back now, I built my own hot tub but struggled to find the information I needed. So, once my tub was complete, I started this website to help others in their own pursuit of hot tub and plunge pools DIY building information.

Fast forward to 2025, I've helped over 1400+ DIY customers just like you all over the world build hot tubs and pools. Have a good look around the site, there are lots of resources here. Please do get in touch if I can help you. - Cheers, Andi