A DIY Hot Tub with a View: Edward’s Holiday Let Build on the Isle of Skye

Last updated: September 2026

Is this the best view from a DIY hot tub? Edward was building a new, ultra-modern holiday let on the Isle of Skye and wanted a hot tub as part of it. With his builders already on site, he knew it would be much cheaper for him and his team to build the tub than to bring in a spa builder.

Edward already had the tub in the design for his property, as you can see above. It’s the perfect addition to the ultra-modern design of the holiday let.

The plan

To get things moving, Edward bought my 3.05m x 3.05m design with the structural and architectural drawings. Buying one of the stock designs, which you can modify yourself, is much more cost-effective than having me do a custom design. Not that I want to talk myself out of work. I just like to add value and save you as much money as possible along the way. Today, those designs are my DIY hot tub plans, where you choose your size in metric or imperial.

With the design in hand, Edward and his team could get cracking on the build.

Our first discussions centred on whether it would be viable to heat the tub with an electric heater. In the end, Edward decided an air source heat pump made much more sense, and he went for the Comfortline range. It’s the same model I have on my own tub, and I’ve reviewed it in my Comfortline heat pump review. For how the options compare today, see What is the best method to heat my DIY hot tub?

At this stage, Edward’s main concern was noise from the heat pump. Although he planned to live in the property for the first year or so, it was going to be a holiday let, and the last thing he wanted was a noisy heater outside a bedroom. The Comfortline is quite quiet, but we decided to move it to a different spot that wasn’t underneath the window. There’s more on this in How noisy is an air source heat pump?

The location

With the plans in place, Edward ordered all the parts from me, and I shipped them up to the Isle of Skye. If you don’t know it, Skye is an island off the west coast of Scotland. The views are amazing, and they were one of the reasons Edward wanted to build the tub. Just check out the view below.

This was going to be the location for the hot tub.

Edward’s property is in the grounds of his hotel, the Cuillin Hills Hotel, which overlooks Portree Bay. It looks absolutely stunning. If you’re in the area, it’s definitely the place to stay.

The build: block inside, poured concrete outside

One of Edward’s main concerns was that the walls shouldn’t be too thick. He wanted the tub to fit with the ultra-modern look of the holiday let.

The construction method he chose is a hybrid of block and poured concrete. You can use either on its own, but Edward used block for the inner walls and seats. Then, on the outside, he shuttered (formed) around the plumbing and poured concrete to cover it. That gives the tub the structural strength it needs and keeps the wall thickness down. For all the options side by side, see Hot tub wall construction: what are the options?

The first step was getting the inner walls up. Then the plumbing and insulation went on to them.

Edward and his team fitted all the plumbing to the outside of the block walls. My DIY hot tub plumbing guide explains how the jets, drains and returns are laid out. The next step was to put up the shuttering (the wooden forms) so they could pour concrete around the pipework.

Pouring the concrete

Forming and shuttering any DIY hot tub is a big job. You can mix the concrete yourself, but if you do, you’ll find you get very distinct “layers”, because it’s hard to make exactly the same mix every time. It’s much easier to have it delivered.

When you order concrete, ask for 4,000 PSI, and add fibres and a waterproofing admixture if they’re available. They add to the quality of the finished job. In the UK, suppliers use strength classes rather than PSI. 4,000 PSI is about 28 MPa, which corresponds to C28/35, so that’s the grade to ask for. When the concrete arrives, have plenty of hands on deck to get it poured and vibrated down.

If you don’t unload the concrete in a reasonable time, you’ll almost certainly be charged extra, because the driver is working to a schedule. That’s worth knowing if you haven’t ordered ready-mix before.

You can see in the photos that there’s a lot of bracing on the forms. Concrete is heavy, and the last thing you want is the walls bowing under the weight before it’s set.

The next step is to let the concrete cure. Don’t take the forms off until you’re sure the concrete has gained enough strength. In warm weather, don’t let it dry out too quickly, or it’ll crack, and cracks mean leaks. For the waterproofing that goes on next, see my waterproofing, grout and tile adhesive guide.

Fast forward a couple of days and wow, Edward’s DIY hot tub was really taking shape. How good does this look? And that view…

It was all going so well…

Edward’s build was progressing at a rate of knots. He and the team were really putting it together at pace.

When it came to testing, apart from a couple of air locks (which are par for the course, see How to deal with a hot tub air lock), the systems were all up and running. The heat pump was heating and the jets were all nice and bubbly, but there was a leak.

Edward was losing around 25cm (10in) of water overnight. That’s quite a large leak, and because it was winter, it was even harder to trace, as there was water all over the ground anyway.

The fact that the water level was settling around the height of the jets was the clue. It pointed to either the plumbing or the jet housings. Edward used tracer dye and tested around every jet with the jet inserts removed.

He found the culprit: a bad seal around one of the jets. He sealed it with epoxy putty and, bingo, the leak was fixed and the water was holding.

That’s a textbook way to find a leak. Let the water drop until it stops, because the level it settles at tells you where to look, then dye-test everything at that height. I’ve covered the whole process in How to detect and fix a hot tub leak. It’s also a good reason to take care when setting jet bodies in the first place (see How to install gunite jet bodies).

Building a hot tub for a holiday let?

If your tub will be used by paying guests, like Edward’s, the rules are different from a private garden tub. In Great Britain, the HSE’s guidance HSG282, on controlling Legionella in spa pools, specifically covers domestic-type hot tubs used as part of a business, such as holiday rental units. It covers how the tub is designed, commissioned, run and maintained, and how often the water is tested and monitored, so read it before you finalise the design. Plan the build around that: easy access to the equipment, a sensible filtration and sanitising setup, and a drain that makes water changes quick. I’ve covered the differences in Differences between domestic and commercial hot tubs. If you’re outside Great Britain, check your local rules.

Job done! What a view

The final photos Edward sent me of this build are just stunning. The view and the hot tub are simply spectacular.

Once again, another “hot tub student” flies the proverbial hot tub nest. One very proud teacher here. This is a fantastic build. Well done, Edward!

Planning your own build?

Edward’s build shows what a stock design can do in the right hands. My DIY hot tub plans come in a range of sizes in metric and imperial, including 10ft x 10ft, with CAD drawings, the plumbing layout, a full parts list and the video course. For the groundwork, start with my DIY in-ground hot tub build guide.

If you need something shaped around a building, like Edward’s, sketch it in the free Tub & Pool Designer Pro software, and I can turn it into architectural CAD and a 3D plumbing design. And if you’d rather have a pool than a tub, have a look at my DIY plunge pool guide.

FAQs

What strength concrete should I order for a poured hot tub?

I recommend 4,000 PSI in the USA, which is about 28 MPa, or C28/35 in the UK. Add fibres and a waterproofing admixture if your supplier offers them, and have it delivered rather than mixing it yourself.

Can I mix block and poured concrete in one hot tub?

Yes. Edward used block for the inner walls and seats, and poured concrete outside to cover the plumbing. It keeps the walls slim and strong.

How do I find a leak in a DIY hot tub?

Let the water drop until it stops. The level it settles at shows you where to look. Then use tracer dye around the jets, fittings and lights at that height, with the jet inserts removed.

Are there extra rules for a hot tub in a holiday let?

In Great Britain, yes. The HSE’s HSG282 guidance covers hot tubs used as part of a business, including holiday rentals, so you’ll need to manage the Legionella risk, with regular water testing, monitoring and maintenance.

Could you beat Edward’s view? Tell me about your spot in the comments below. I read them all.

Cheers,
Andi

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Thanks - Andi

 

Hi, Andi here. I own Buildahottub.com and also write all of the articles and info pages on the site. Some years back now, I built my own hot tub but struggled to find the information I needed. So, once my tub was complete, I started this website to help others in their own pursuit of hot tub and plunge pools DIY building information.

Fast forward to 2025, I've helped over 1400+ DIY customers just like you all over the world build hot tubs and pools. Have a good look around the site, there are lots of resources here. Please do get in touch if I can help you. - Cheers, Andi